Re: ++Gear Down!++ Repair Thread
Maybe your cable tip just oxidized or the cable went bad. For the Radias Cables.
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Robots for Robots → General Hardware / Software Discussion → ++Gear Down!++ Repair Thread
Maybe your cable tip just oxidized or the cable went bad. For the Radias Cables.
@Blue Maquina
I tried already a new set of cables, out of the rack, straight to the mixer, on different channels, but to no avail.
So I would exclude the cables...
So I have been reading a lot about re-capping synths. I need to look at my Roland SH-09 as i keep getting a weird loud noise after its on for a while. So it seems that the first thing I should do is change the capacitors. Apart from the benefits of newer components and buying good quality components (which makes sense), there is a lot of Audophile talk about the musicality of the components. Will recapping with high quality caps improve the tone of the synth?
@computerdisco
new caps vs old caps is a long story.... some purists say that you can get the original sound only with the old ones, because
of different manufacturing processes...
Personally, I did recap my 303 and I can't hear any difference, and I used newly produced caps (talking 2005 here).
What are the options anyways? old caps or no caps at all? I go for new caps.
Recent Korg Polysix weirdness in the studio.
At the moment my Polysix is showing following symptoms:
-the PWM-LFO is effecting the Filter cutoff, with what sounds to be a rounded square wave. Changing PWM speed changes the frequency of the VCF modulation. The depth of this unwanted VCF modulation decreases as the synth warms up from a extreme amount when cold, to the point of the synth being usable.
-MG LFO leaks through to effect the VCO pitch slightly, regardless of MG destination setting, depth or delay.
Any clues what could have failed? I must add, this Polysix shows repaired battery acid damage. A new battery is fitted, but the memories don't work.
Got a SH-101 for a realy good price in nm condition. It would be a bargain (not such insane price malleus pretii was demanding), but the bender got unfortunately broken while shipping (2 arp LEDs up&down+ up are also non working - but the arp works).
Questtion: where to get a bender? vintageplanet and chipforbrains don't have any benders. or is there is possibility to fix it?
my sh09's bender is broken as well. just live with it, it still functions fine. ive never been able to find a replacement, but maybe keep an eye on ebay..
@ Rude mines busted too but I guess I dont feel so bad now.
Is the 101 bender the same?
I thought maybe I could get one made from somewhere like this:
http://www.3dcreationlab.co.uk/3d_printing_gallery.php
The reality is I never will and it still works so,
just looks a bit sad.
The bender itself isn't broken - the connection inside is broken. It still works and I guess I could live with it. But this machine looks so new. I crumbles my heart. In the end of this video you could see the mess: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxNYsqXnx4E
So does anybot know a technique to fix this? Glueing or tapeing?
open it up and see what the problem is first.. looks very fixable
I already did that. The very tiny connection of the bender unit (two points connection, very small plastic pieces) got broken. I guess, that glueing will not work so properly - it could easily break again while using, because the connections of the parts are so small (built a lot of plastic model kits as a kid). Here: http://analogsweden.com/blog/?tag=sh-101 some guy fixed a bender. But no fotos. Hmmm...
I araldite glued my juno6 bender from 3 pieces, it is still holding after 7 years. As long as u can clamp it tight in position for 24hrs, you can glue it as well as original strength
use superglue or 2 omponent superglue. i once glued a broken key back together with this, and it still holds fine.. there are some glues that bond insanely together.. and plastic glues well..
Yes, you are both right about the glue(s). But I guess I didn't describe it very well (very small pieces to glue: 5 mm long 1 mm wide, two of them holding the whole bender unit - not very resilient fixing points) - so I'll take a picture at the weekend to show you what I mean. And certainly I will try to glue it. I have no other choice
Ffffffffffffffffuck! My roommate caused a blackout in our flat and now my vrs-23 is dead! Sound goes thrue but no more echos/reverberation!!!! Now I'm a very angry robot!
edit according to the LEDs there must me echos, but nothing to hear. maybe some connections burned? I have the shematics but no tech.
He checked everything - circuit paths ok. Must be a damaged IC. He says that the schematics don't show what function each IC has. He needs a list with the IC's funktions or so (I'm no tech). So bug search will take months - no repair - it will be too expensive. Dynacord does not provide the necessary schematics. (I have the two schematics which you can get in the internet already).
my sh09 is having a weird problem w/ the keyboard - when a key is depressed, the tuning is weird and off (almost sounds like there is some strange pitch modulation going on) - but the tuning returns to normal upon release.
anyone have any clue what this might be? i fear its going to take an expensive trip to the tech...
My teebee has a very pitched noise coming from the oscillator. I've been getting by ok with it but it's really starting to bug me now. I'm hoping maybe it's a cap? They all looked ok when I opened it up (not domed out or anything).... hoping it's not a transistor but in the back of my head that's what I'm thinking.
post up an audio sample..
My Korg DW8000 drains internal CR2032 battery in two weeks and then goes nuts. Any tips on what to check?
endis: sounds like you soldered the battery? solder a battery holder instead and put the battery in it. just guessing here but i had that with my DX7
No, it's sitting on battery holder. Double-checked soldering, made no mistakes. Too me it sounds like some kind of short circuit, but I cannot identify what is faulty, all key components (diodes, transistors) seems to be ok.
post up an audio sample..
Computer, here's some audio:
http://ic101.net/teebee/
I cycled through saw, square and ring. It's fairly audible in the pauses after the start-up sequence and then somewhat in the following ones. I'm curious as to what you think..... I probably ought to just make rounds checking voltage.
Hmm not sure .. little bit of distortion too..
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