++Gear Down!++ Repair Thread (Page 7 of 14)

the lfo trig button is impressed - i dunno how this could happen - maybe the tomcat was bored and did some shit - he's climbing on gear all the time. now the button is constantly pressed. can i fix this without opening the synth? shit!

lol i would prefer oping it automatique poking in it with a flat screwdriver sound kinda primitive that is the way i used to fix my synths with gafatape and tipje (the carton you put in your joint as a filter) that sucks and itll alway get worse eventually just open the synth it can handle it

ok. i did a little research - and it seems my jx-3p is the only one with this black plastic button. all others (on pics) have the silver coated button. it makes no sense for the design. so i guess it was replaced. the synth must be opened in the past according to the screws of the case. the button worked only when i pushed it - no on/off mode. how is this on your jx-3ps bots?

now i have it in the right position again - but it doesn't work so well - if i push the button it stays down...

edit: i have a later modell of the jx-3p with midi IN, OUT & THRUE - does anybot also have a later modell? silver or black button?

I guess there is no chance to get one of these silver coated buttons - this roland modell is over 25 years old.

thanks for the link rude, i always forget about this page... "Push Switch with LED SPQ009F" is out of stock - they have this silver cap, but i guess i need a whole new button. and i need a tech. i have no electric and soldering skills.

that black button is after market. I think even the early ones with no midi thru still had the silver button. those buttons suck though what you want is a latching button. I did the mod on my old JX 3p b4 i sold it.

So unsolder the original switch and buy a latching one instead, maybe even one that you can push down (but not all the way) so it can still work as the old button did. while your at it put a latching switch for the transpose also!

-A

you dont need a tech. replacing a switch like this is the easiest thing to do. learn to solder and do it yourself!

I just got a Korg DDD5, kind of fun, sounds like a cheap Linndrum knockoff.

I'm having a problem with saving patterns, I think it's the battery but I wonder if anybody has experience with these.

It does a "SYSTEM RESET"  (as displayed on the lcd) everytime I turn it on, unless I do an on-off very quickly, probably the internal battery right?

my mixer doesn't work today, after a long time not being plugged in. It is a soundtracs solo. The external power supply LED's show that the -17V circuit is not working. I confirmed this with a multimeter, and there is oily gunk all over the -17V area of the power supply circuit board.

Question: If I recap the capacitors that seemed to have leaked (not the biggest ones, but two 1000microF) is it likely to be all good? The traces show staining/corrosion, but the they all conduct. Are the Op Amps likely to be allright?

My nord lead 2 is not properly working since yesterday.
When I turn it on  sometimes it turns on properly, sometimes it only gives a small blink and then dies.
Or it turns on but only shows some random number on the display, and theres no output at all.

Would you think its something with the power supply? Cable broken or something?

Pretty pissed of since I just bought it 2 weeks ago.

started repairing the poly 61. the keyboard has a few filthy contacts (not a big problem) the batterie has some leakage gonna cut it out. does the poly 61 function without the batterie?

Recap done! Also a L296 power regulator had to be swapped, I guess it got corroded inside, the legs didn't look too healthy.

Now I've got to find out where the funny, intermittent FM/Theremin type noise is coming from into the audio path of the mixer. I guess something on the power circuit here in the house. What are the likely culprits for such high frequency FM, hard drives?

battery is out cleaned it now its standing to dry

the mikmusic site says 2-3 hours. why you recomend 24 hours? you think 2/3 is to short?